Posted: 1st June 2011 by James Bradshaw

Vavasour Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Winemaker Stuart Marfell grew up in Marlborough and has been a Vavasour fan all his life.  His initial encounter with the brand came during its first harvest  in 1989 when he was in Junior School. “I showed up as a nine year old with my mum. The local farmers’ wives helped out picking during the first harvest and I tagged along. I ate a whole lot of grapes and thought it was pretty cool.” He returned in 2003 as a qualified winemaker and hasn’t left.

Planting its first vines back in 1986, Vavasour was a pioneer in the Awatere Valley, establishing itself as a specialist of the region. “I think the big difference is the Awatere Valley gives an amazing concentration and a salty character.  The soils are less fertile out here and it’s a bit cooler so we end up with more intense flavours,” says Marfell.  “We find the Awatere gives herbal edges but there’s quite often stone fruit, blackcurrant and tomato stalk.”

He suggests that the distinct flavor of the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc derives from the quality of the fruit. It was a warm, dry year with low yields and he attributes the vineyard, “rather than any winemaking tricks,” for producing such a noteworthy batch.  The winemaking process is fairly standard for the region – commercial yeasts, and fermentation at cool temperatures in stainless steel to retain the fruity freshness.

While the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc has won high acclaim, Marfell hints that the true highlight of the vintage will be Pinot Noir.




Posted: 17th February 2011 by James Bradshaw

While starting Winerack, I made a reletively easy choice to start selling wine to the retail sector of the market. With well over 2000 wine importers in Hong Kong, under 10% are focusing there effort on retail when (according to the Australian Trade commission) it accounts for 65% of the market.

Despite the unbalanced divide with retail and wholesale companies in Hong Kong, Winerack have now taken on the decision to wholesale.

People who’ve found Winerack realise they’re getting a deal. Unfortunately the people who choose the wine lists or ‘decision makers’ generally speaking don’t have clue. This sector suffers higher relative markups than retail.

I think we can all agree that wine is seriously over priced in 99% of restaurants and bars in Hong Kong. In hundreds of circumstances I can find wines that cost from the vineyards under HK$20 are being sold for $220 plus.

It does start at the route, but how can we change it?

First argument I have with restaurant owners (and I do argue like hell) is the rent. Okay fair enough, you have to cover you rent, but how many times are you, as the consumer are you tempted (a) into a first bottle; (b) into a second bottle or (c) from not going to the restaurant because the wine is over priced.

It’s the commonly thought you are rich and don’t mind paying these $220 for a $20 bottle of wine. Am I wrong? I don’t mind to pay $220 plus for a bottle, but really I should be getting something I’d be paying $120 for in a bottle shop.

Minority focus is, I feel the second problem I find. People are so focused on accounting for every single person, before you know it, you’ve actually upset the majority. And for goodness sake, don’t tell restaurant managers their prices are good, they WILL put the prices up. No offense to you if you have on an occasion tried to befriend the restaurateur by reassuring them that they have a good setup.

We all know we’re saving when we bite the bullet and pay the $100 corkage, though we don’t always feel comfortable with this.

With Winerack starting in wholesale, I will not act as a salesman, I will campaign to change the 20 year old ideals set when wine was a under consumed product only for the wealthy.

We will keep you up to date with our progress.




Posted: 25th January 2011 by James Bradshaw

Tags: , , ,


Even after the first year out of six years on the Hong Kong wine scene, I noticed a unusual obsession with food & wine pairing. Not only with the managers of companies but drinkers too. My common response within that first year was an honest response – some easy pointers.

After year two I came to the conclusion that this obsession was based on people buying wine they didn’t actually like, and matching was a pretentious effort to actually appreciate the quality.

So, I go back to my youth. I remember the wines we used to quaff like there was no tomorrow. From the California Zinfandels, to the Italian Pinot Grigio and South African Chenin Blanc, the sickly sweet roses of California and Italian Asti Spumante.

There was no mention of matching, we just happened to drink wine with dinner.

Where would are own pallets be if we didn’t experience the over oaked chardonnays, sticky Liebfraumilch and cheap bubbly?

While sourcing for Winerack, one of the major appreciations I had was to completely disregard anything to do with food and wine matching. The limited selection, sounding like a hippy – is a journey for your pallet. People are so eager to jump into wine at the deep end, when really they should be starting out at the $50 wines and working there way up.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying a beginner won’t like a bottle of Ch. Latour 1982, though the chances are they will like our $49 Tin Roof Shiraz Cab more. And the beauty of it is that you can drink it all on its own.

In 2011 we plan to promote our 4 wine styles. Fruity, Complex, Zesty & Powerful.




Posted: 25th January 2011 by James Bradshaw

Labour
The making of wine is a labour-intensive process, the price of a bottle will partly reflect the varying costs of labour. For example, the minimum wage in Australia in HKD110 an hour whereas in Chile it’s HKD18. The process of wine growing is now manufactured like making a car. Machines take away intense process of vine to wine, resulting lesser quality but good value wine. Almost all fine wines from around the world use very labour intense methods to create the wine.

Methods
The cost of new oak barrel will instantly add HKD14 to a single bottle.  Considerably more expensive than the widespread use of wood chips to enhance the flavour. Other traditional methods such as méthode champenoise are incredibly expensive for a relatively minor result.

A la mode
Chardonnay became so big in the US in the 1990s that people started to name their children after it. This popularity of grapes can lead to the overplanting, which will result in a cheapening of a grape. Fashions change and as a result the backlash is some of the best grapes are available for the production of cheap wine. Australia has overproduction of both Cabernet and Chardonnay which saw the quality level of sub HKD100 wines hit qualiy level of twice their price.

Marketing
While the money spent in marketing is often offset by the lower production costs of a mass producer, the French wine industry invests billions of Euros each year in the marketing of champagne. I.e. a bottle of Moet (pronounced Mo-wett not Mo-ay which it’s commonly known) will set you back twice that of a bottle of Nicolas Feuillatte, France’s #1 Champagne. The quality is comparible. The price of Ch. Lafite has unjustifiable increased massively within the last few years due to the marketing of the brand (and rumours) on the Chinese market.




Posted: 25th January 2011 by James Bradshaw

McGuigan's answer to originality

In the new world, regions have come under growing scrutiny for their unoriginality while choosing grapes to grow.

Are the mass producers to blame? Or, the consumer?

Lets look at boutique wineries, or better still – Australian cult wineries. Cult wineries own something fundamental about experimenting – a cult, who will generally buy their experiment. Mass producers simply mix bad experiments in with normal wine 1% at a time.

So, hands up if you’ve heard of Dr. Harold Olmo. Dr. Olmo spend his youth at Davis California creating new varieties, often based around Carignan. Today, his small legacy lies mainly in Western Australia.

Dr. Olmo did not necessarily succeed as such, more to the point, he tried. Where would the British wine industry be without experimentation? Without experimentation, we’d be without Gewurztraminer. And without chance we’d be without Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio. All the above developed by wind cross pollinating vines.

Even France’s heritage has matured quite rapidly in the past 150 years. A Bordeaux for instance was typically Cabernet SyrahSyrah was outlawed at the beginning of the 20th Century, not to mention Cabernet Sauvignon did not even exist 200 years ago. (Shiraz) until

Shiraz (syrah) truly has it’s home in Australia. We can all cheers to that. As for whites, one can see the Aussies veering off French varietals and steering onto the popular Italian varieties – Pinot Grigio and my current favourite Moscato (both are both originally French but far more common these days in Italy).

With 2000 grapes to choose from, can it be a coincidence that Australia is fit for exactly the same grapes as France & Italy?

Verdejo, Verdelho, Insolia, Malvasia, Macabeo, Vuira, Viognier all produce great wines in southern Europe’s warmer climate. With strict EU laws on the making of wine, the southern European growers are unable to counterbalance their hot climate with the addition of added acid or sugar. This happens to be necessity when making many wines even in renowned regions such as Eden Valley in Australia.

The best New World wines we’ve come across to date have been such experiments. Winerack is yet to embrace them. Though we’re currently looking at Mendoza, Argentina; South Africa; Margaret River, Australia and Austria.

Please post replies and we will see what we can all come up with.




Posted: 23rd January 2011 by James Bradshaw

The 2004 Riesling won numberous award in the 2008 London IWC and Decanter wine awards including a trophy and amazingly the best Riesling on the Earth.

Several vintages on and the 2007 is already showing signs of that great Alsacian dry style. Bursting with fresh lime peel and kerosene. The pallet has an soft oil like texture. Already well matured though this wine will age well for another 10 years to come…

http://www.winerack.com.hk/store/more-featured-products/mcguigan-shortlist-riesling-2009-eden-valley